What the hay is a sweet potato slip? This question has been really bothering me and now I know they are rooted clippings from shoots that sprout from sweet potatoes. Silly me, Whenever I heard things like plant sweet potato slips, I assumed they were like seed potatoes, or something, even though I knew that Sweet Potatoes Ipomoae batatas are part of the morning glory family and grow underground from vines that spread along the surface. (Yams also grown from vines, but are from a different family, Dioscoreaceae.)
Sweet potatoes come in a wide variety of colors from white and yellow and reds and purples. Dry and moist fleshed variates are both available. In the Tropical Americas where sweet potatoes originated, dry fleshed white variates are preferred. Ethnic markets in the US also offer the white-fleshed variates. The moist copper skin/orange flesh sweet potato is the most common one in the US and the one you will see in all the chain groceries.
Sweet potatoes have been ranked as one of the healthiest vegetables, they are full of vitamin and minerals and contain healthy complex carbs good for moderating the blood sugar because they are slow to digest and consequently very satisfying and filling.
One of the problems I had comprehending the definition of “sweet potato slips” is none of these articles ever said where you buy sweet potato slips. Do they come in Bags? Sets? Pieces? Now it makes sense. After Googling sweet potato plants I saw a bunch of pictures showing sweet potatoes leafing out in jars. All you need is a sweet potato root to make slips. The first challenge is getting your root to sprout. Sweet potatoes keep for a darned long time. How do I know this? Because I ate one yesterday purchased last fall and there’s still one hiding in the cupboard. Research shows that sweet potatoes sprout best a 95% humidity,
I picked a nice wide mouth jar that fit the sweet potato securely and filled it with enough water so it’s barely touching the root. You will notice that one end of the sweet potato is pointier than the other. This is where the roots will start from. The blunter end is where the leaves will emerge. Now I need to wait. Once enough spouts emerge I will cut them and make sure they have their own roots. Hopefully I will get several plants from this root.This would also be a fun project to do with the kiddos. Oh, one more thing sweet potatoes need a long growing season 90-100 days to mature.
WorldCrops Sweet Potato tons of good info about sweet potatoes from a worldwide perspective included several recipes.
The Walden Effect: Homesteading Year4 Good how to series “clipping sweet potato slips” with super step-by-step photos of the process.
Compost Guy Growing Sweet Potato Slips. Good photos and info for making multiple cuttings.
and if you happened to have a couple of sweet potatoes hanging around here are a few great variations for baked sweet potato fries. Care2 Sweet Potato Fries Three Ways.
One of the true delights of gardening is the access to fresh herbs. Herbs are wonderful fresh, but they are also great when dried. There is an amazing difference between herbs dried fresh and those dried before Pontius was a Pilot.
Annuals are some of the easiest and fastest herbs to grow. They will produce spices (seed) the first year. Annual herbs include anise, angelica, basil, borage, chamomile, chervil (french parsley,) coriander, cumin, dill, epazote, fenugreek, nigella, aka, love in a mist, mustard and parsley root.
Cilantro can be used as an herb and later in the season harvested for the coriander seeds. Dill leaves can also be used fresh or dried, (in cumbers dishes, Swedish meatballs, etc.), and then harvested for the dill seeds, an important pickling spice.
Perennial herbs include catnip, chives, lemon balm, lavender hardy to Zone 5, hyssop, anise hyssop, sweet marjoram, mint, oregano hardy to Zone 5, a Dave’s Garden user reported Greek Oregano overwintering in Zone 3 with mulch. Sage hardy zone 5 possibly lower, rosemary no colder than zero, in Zone 6 it’s likely you will lose plants in the ground during bad winters even with mulch, thyme hardy to Zone 4 .
When grown from seed, perennial herbs usually flower the second year, although I grew a lavender and it waited until this year, the third year, to flower.
Perennials grown as annuals include fennel and marjoram. Fennel is usually harvested for the bulb the first year before flowering, which occurs during the second year. Marjoram is technically a perennial, but is usually grown as an annual because it is unlikely to survive harsh winters with temperatures lower than zero, possibly hardy to zone 6.
Caraway and Parsley, are two of the few herbs which are biennials.
There are two different savories, Winter Savory and Summer Savory, both have a similar spicy flavor, but Summer Savory, the preferred drying savory, is an annual, while Winter Savory is a perennial hardy to Zone 5.
Marjoram and other semi-hardy perennials, like rosemary, can always be overwinter in pots. If you have a sunny location that’s great, if not store the plants is a basement or storage room and withhold water. Rosemary is one of the trickier herbs to grow from seed, they are sometime slow to germinate and slow growing after germination. For busher plants pinch seedlings once they have approximately 6 sets of leaves.
When herbs are dried the water evaporates, shrinking the leaves and concentrating the flavor. When substituting dry herbs for fresh it is best to use only 1/3 or 1/4 of the amount suggested and vice-versa.
One of my favorite all-purpose seasonings is Herbes de Provence. Although the name suggests a venerable origin in the pantries of the Francais it is a much more recent invention. French spice-giant Ducros, now owned by McCormick, was the first manufacturer to market Herbes de Provence in the 1970s. According to Wikipedia, Provencal cuisine traditionally used the same herbs, but cooks would have used each herb separately and with discretion.
Ducros recommends Herbes de Provence for soups, stews, casseroles, anything roasted, and even pasta sauce.
Here is a basic guideline for Herbes de Provence.
- Savory, preferably Summer Savory
- 1 or 2 crushed Bay Leaves
- Lavender flowers
- Fennel seeds
My papier mache bugs are finally finished! I was hoping to have them done by July, but they lingered in the shed awaiting the last coats 0f spar (marine) varnish. Here is my original post showing pictures of the sketches and armatures with out papier mache.
I used all materials from the garbage, mostly cardboard and newspaper. I also used a few items that I had on hand bamboo skewers, duct tape, spray paint, stain, copper wire scavenged from a construction site, and clothesline rope.
Above is the Boll Weevil, I think it’s my favorite one. I really like the way the bruise colored finish came out. I used purple stain to covered the mache. I sponged on blue and green stain over the purple and finished it by sprayed over lightly with black.
Here is the menacing Colorado Potato Beetle. All of the antennas are made from copper electrical wire. I drilled a hole through the body with my mini Dremel and threaded a length of wire through the hole(s). I secured the antennas with a piece of bamboo skewer tightly pushed into the hole. The antennas were then wrapped with papeir mache.
For the wings of the squash vine borer I marked the veins with a Sharpie and cut lengths of clothesline rope and soaked the rope in papier mache paste and then stuck them on to the premarked lines. After they dried I used regular white glue along the edges of the rope to prevent anything from moving. The ropes and wing were then paper mached over.
The bugs are strong enough to stand on their own legs, ( I actually pick them up by the leg) but I didn’t want them in contact with the ground moisture, so I secured three bamboo skewers through the bottom of each bug. It also gives them a little height to scare groundhogs!!
Back in March I posted about using Epsom Salts as a Plant Supplement. I have had such wonderful results on my rose bushes that I wanted to share this tip with all of you.
My roses bushes are suffering. They are growing in partial shade and one of them is stuffed behind a huge, ugly, smelly boxwood where there is no air circulation. Despite the poor site and continual black-spot infestations, they bushes have managed to put on a spectacular show this spring, at least in part due to the addition of Epsom Salts, as a supplement for the nutrient Magnesium. Magnesium is a key element at the center of chlorophyll molecules.
I use Epsom Salts monthly at a rate of 1 Tsp per gallon. Or 1/4 tsp, ( a pinch) per quart.
Some sources suggest as much as 1/2 Cup per plant, but I live according to Greek philosophy, nothing in excess.
Even the bush in the shadier location in covered with buds (which was not the case in the past). A huge improvement. I recommend it to anyone whose rose bushes are struggling and even if they aren’t it is great supplement to add to your arsenal.